Category: Diary

3rd – 13th Sept

We breezed back into America-land via the surprisingly pleasant and efficient immigration of Boston Airport. Within an hour we were heading out of the city in the king of hire cars, a Chevy Sonic Turbo. More noise than action, but at least it was wheels. It was early evening, and 32 deg C.

Our first night was booked in a place near the storage unit. It was massive, but deserted. Like a set location for a benign version of The Shining. Today was a Monday public holiday, and there were no business people staying in this predominantly business hotel. 10 minutes after check-in we were at the bar, each had a beer in hand and burgers ordered. 2 minutes after that we had struck up conversation with a lovely chap called Brian. He was a largish gentleman in a neon yellow oversized singlet which nicely showcased his tattoos and underarm hair.  3 years prior he had spent his honeymoon in an area we plan to travel through in a month or so and he proceeded to write us a travel itinerary of ‘things-you-must-see-and-do’ on a sheet of A4 paper. Most of the list was ‘all-you-can-eat’ buffet restaurants and bourbon distilleries. It seemed he done a lot of eating and drinking on his honeymoon. I enquired jokingly if he was still married. No, he said with a chuckle.

The next morning we drove up to the storage unit to be reunited with Big Dave and the Tin Can. Despite the fact we had forgotten to remind the manager we were coming, all was well and luckily we were not blocked in. Big D started first time and Tin Can was dry and fragrant. It was like we left them yesterday, not 11 months ago.  The plan was now to take them to a local garage to have Big D serviced and a few things done to Tin Can. This was going to take about a week and we had arranged to stay with our friends Greg and Gigi again. Big D and TC were left in safe hands and the Sonic Turbo took us the 200 miles to our next roost, Ridgefield CT.

Our planned 6 nights with Greg and Gigi extended to 9 as Big D unfortunately needed a major steering component replacing. Being able to go in the right direction is an important quality of a road trip, or in fact any motor vehicle journey.

We spent most of our time in CT fairly lazily. It was great to have time and space to gather our thoughts, do some bits of shopping and start to get a bit organised. We caught up with the family Bazarian and tried to be useful by cooking and tidying up a lot. I know house guests have a ‘best-before’ date, and it is usually much shorter than 9 days.

The major fun during our stay was an overnight trip that the 4 of us took to New York City. This is Greg and Gigi’s old stomping ground and after a hotel was booked and Grandma was enlisted to babysit we drove the 2 hours into Manhattan.  Nick was last here in 1990 and I came for a day in 1994. it has changed a bit since then. We spent a lot of the day just walking and taking in the sights but the highlight was visiting the 9/11 Memorial.  This has been very tastefully done and was quite special. Greg and Gigi were both in town on that day and even 17 years down the line the memories are still raw. It was emotional even for us. We had both done the trip to the top of the towers on our respective visits.

The evening was passed with cocktails, wine and dinner at an old-school New York steak restaurant called Gallaghers. Gigi used to come here as a kid with her parents. The meat is stored in a chiller room at the main entrance for all to drool over. This is not a place with a vegetarian option on the menu.

Nick and I had the day to ourselves the following day as the Bazarians had to get back to work and kids. We hit the streets again and headed up through Central Park to The Metropolitan Museum of Art. It was a a pleasant Saturday and the whole world was out running and cycling in the park. It would have been easy to have been mown down in the rush of athletisism if one wasn’t paying attention. Even the horses drawing the carriages were looking anxious. The Met was enormous. After 2 hours we had seen about 5% of exhibits and were exhausted. We bailed and with weary feet made our way back to Grand Central Station to catch the train back to CT. 5th Avenue and a lot of cross streets were closed to traffic due to a big Workers and Unions march. There were marching bands and big rigs, bikes and cheerleaders. Quite a spectacle.

Eventually we had the news that the work was going to be finished soon on BD and TC and we could collect them on Friday 14th Sept. We bade our farewells to our very generous hosts and headed north again. We booked a night’s stay in a hotel close to the garage and spent the evening watching news reports of hurricane Florence coming ashore in the Carolinas.  This is a monster storm and is going to dump a s**t load of rain.  Glad not to be down there in an RV.

We were excited for tomorrow.  The start of Tin Can Travels proper!

 

 

16th May: Day 38

Today we head East. Considering that we are on an Easterly journey not much true eastwards travel has happened yet. We set off from Great Falls without a destination in mind really. Yet more huge Montana landscapes slipped past, this really is an epically large country. We stopped in a small town called Stanford for lunch. It was one of those places that has seen its prime, like a lot of the towns we have passed.

We ended up stopping for the evening at ‘Little Montana Truck-stop’ in another backwater called Grass Range. Ostensibly it was a moderately miserable overnight roost; bleak weather, potholed and unkempt and complete lack of any reception of any sort (cell, 3G, Wifi, TV even radio) but it was bargain basement cheap. We managed to park up, get plugged in to power and water and get sorted just before the heavens opened. To be honest, once we are set up and locked into TinCan we could be anywhere. So with dinner cooked, the heating on and a DVD playing – we were happy.

17 & 18th May: Days 39 and 40

As a standard feature there was a diner at the truck-stop. We took our place amongst the be-hatted and booted farmers and had a cooked breakfast for $3 and coffee for 50c. Nick heaven! This fortified us for the miserable day of driving through wind and rain over yet more desolate and endless Montana hills and plains. Will this state never end??

Our destination for the next 2 days was Hardin, another nowheresville. But it is just down the road from the significant site of The Little Bighorn Battlefield which seemed deserving of a visit. This is where on June 25th 1786 Custer and his troops suffered devastating losses at the hands of several thousand Indians led by Sitting Bull.  The site does not ignore the fact that the US army and government were definitely wallowing in the moral swamplands regarding their treatment of the Indians. Despite that, at the time it just fortified the US government to step up the heavy hand.

In all more than 200 US troops were killed, including Custer himself, and the site where each soldier fell is marked by a small white headstone; a poignant and understated memorial. The photo shows the hilltop of the ‘Last Stand’. There are now also markers for some of the Indian warriors that died too, and in recent decades a dedicated memorial to the Indian tribes has been added.

After we returned to Hardin, we called into the Museum. This had a reconstituted village made up of lots of relocated historic buildings and was quite a gem, in an otherwise nondescript town.

Our RV park for this 2 nights was misnamed ‘Grand View’, and was the least satisfactory of our stops so far. Of note, the toilets in the toilet block had shower curtains in lieu of doors. What the….? And the trains ran all night and sounded their horns at every crossing. Like Maryhill all over again.

19 and 20th May: Day 41 and 42

We extracted ourselves from the not-so-Grand View, and embarked on another longish day of driving along the I-90.  This saw us finally leaving Montana, and crossing into Wyoming. The landscape did change. It seemed a bit tattier, and there were lots of (what I assume were) natural gas wells dotted all over. Lunch was a picnic in a rest stop, and our destination for the night was Devils Tower. Now this is a bizarre place.

It is a magma cone that has had the surrounding sedimentary rock eroded from around it over the past 50 million years or so. So now it stands alone, as an approximately 860ft tall huge lump of rock in the middle of nowhere. Quite impressive. The name ‘Devils Tower’ is likely a mis-translation of the Kiowa tribe’s name for it which was ‘Bear Tower’. The ancient  legend tells of a brother turning into a massive bear-like creature and chasing his 7 sisters. The sisters ran to the stump of a great a tree, which told them to climb up, and when they did, they rose up into the air and became the stars of Pleiades. The bear clawed and scratched the bark with its claws, but they were out of reach.  Seems a reasonable explanation…

Anyway, the tower was proclaimed the first National Monument in 1906 by Roosevelt, and so was protected from commercialisation. The man had foresight. Climbers come here to scale it and people like us come to walk around it and take photos of it. It is quite awe inspiring.

Our stop for the night was ‘Devils Tower View’, which it certainly had.  Another lone ranger night (a real advantage of travelling ahead of the masses) with very tasty burgers in the associated restaurant. I think this was my first burger. An achievement, I think.

We got up early-ish (7.45am alarm-quite a shock to the system at this stage of the game.), packed up, and got on the (short) road to the tower itself.  Here did a couple of hours walking around the base, and then got back on the road again. Next stop South Dakota.

We have plans to base ourselves in one place here for 10 days or so as there is so much to see and do in a relatively small area. We stopped in Rapid City for provisions, then headed south to The Black Hills.

Our hook for coming to this area is that Rocky Racoon lives here. In the Black Hills of South Dakota. We know it’s true because it was on TV, albeit in cartoon form, when were were children. We are keeping our eyes peeled.

We are staying near Hill City, a small town of approx 1000. I don’t know what constitutes being a city in the US, but I think it it is merely a matter of self proclamation and erecting a sign to the fact.  We filled with propane ($41 worth has lasted us 5 weeks-cooking and heating, and running the fridge when we are on the road. Fairy dust compared to our petrol spending). This area obviously gets a lot of visitors when the season gets going. There are a huge number of hotels, camps, cabins, naff attractions, not so naff attractions, and billboards everywhere.

 

 

 

 

 

 

18th April: Day 10

Today is the day that we fledge from our comfortable nest. Fly away from the ensuite bedroom with walk in-wardrobe, the central heating, the cat-swinging space, and our Adventure Facilitators, The Adams.

The Beast and the Tin Can are ready. And so are we, possibly.

The day started early, as Dean and Lori left before us for their trip to Indonesia, having us trusted to lock-up and alarm the house.

By 10am we were mustered, and managed the Highlands Extraction without incident.

Today we are headed to Maryhill State Park, a small, but perfectly formed park with camping on the banks of the Columbia River. It is still in Washington, but looks over to Oregon, as the river is the state boundary.

It was about 250 miles (sorry to all the NZers, had to let go of our metric ideals), but the driving is pretty effortless. Long straight scenic highways and lots of sensible driving (so also quite unlike NZ).

The campsite was and sunny with lot of trees, and bazillions of squirrels to amuse us. We struck camp (i.e. parked), grabbed a beer, and went down to the river to sit in the sun and play skimmers. Lots to see: massive barges on the river, the highway on the other side and the enormously long freight trains chugging through the gorge.

We crashed early. All this excitement is exhausting.

19th April: Day 11

Remember those trains I mentioned. They ran all night, sounding their horns/whistles/claxons (whatever they bl**dy call them) round every corner. Not very sleep inducing. But Hey Ho. Nothing major to achieve today and we had a very lazy morning.

To earn our lunch we broke out the bikes, and meandered around, finding the road up to Stonehenge. This is a WW1 memorial, built atop the gorge, looking up and down the river. It was built to replicate the original, but is fashioned from concrete, and is in an ‘intact’ state. It is, according to the blurb, the first national war memorial. Quite cool really, in a war memorial kind of way. The ride down much more fun than the ride up. We had an equally lazy afternoon. Later on we got chatting to George and Mary, a couple from Alaska. They are travelling in a sensibly sized truck camper, and came over to marvel at our behemoth.

20th April: Day 12

Our main reason for coming to Maryhill State Park was to visit the Maryhill Museum and Art Gallery.  Set up in the 1920s it occupies the massive house that a chap called Sam Hill had built but never lived in.  He was a a big road builder and had bought himself a massive slice of land here. Unfortunately things didn’t work out. However he was very well connected and lots of his buddies donated some very cool artwork.  Most notably there is a whole exhibition of works by Rodin. Who’d have thought it?

After our cultural infusion we meandered on our way. Today we head to Baker City, Oregon. 200 miles of interstate highway, but again empty, scenic and easy driving. On the way we crossed the 45th parallel, the halfway point ‘twixt North Pole and Equator.  We also witnessed our first live-action tumbleweed. Not expecting that in Oregon for some reason.

We are already a little weary of Country and Western music on the radio. This is only our second day on the road. Either we will go mad or be converted to their ways. Time will tell.

Baker city is an ex gold mining town on the old Oregon Trail. It is on a plateau at 3000ft, surrounded by mountains. Very beautiful but very cold. Even Nick put a coat on. Our home for the next 2 nights is a family run park about 1.5 miles out of town. We offloaded the Tin Can, as we are planning a trip tomorrow, and then walked to a local steakhouse.

The trains have followed us…

21st April: Day 13

The reason for a stop in Baker City (Pop. approx 10,000, so a bit of an overly grand title) is that it is close to the Oregon Trail Interpretive Museum. We whizzed up there in the naked truck, which is a veritable hare when not a beast of burden.

Hundreds of thousands of people made an horrendously tough 2000 mile journey to Oregon in oxen carts and on foot with the promise of a better life. The museum is a fantastic homage to them. It sits on a hillside, looking down on the plains, and has a few miles of (nicely paved, thank you) trails to give a taste of what the immigrants would have seen. Our journey with a 4 wheel drive ute, camper with flushing toilet, shower, oven, microwave, queen bed, flat screen TV with DVD, heating, air con and LPG generator, oh and 4G internet with access to Google maps isn’t quite so tough.

                          

 

 

 

 

So, after weeks and weeks of planning, replanning, change of plans,  plan modification, and talking of plans, we are finally doing it.

The flights booked and the visas in place. The camper and truck sourced and paid for, insured and registered. Travel insurance sorted. Cash ordered and collected. A small apothecary of medication stockpiled. Year-end tax paper work lodged with the accountant and GST done. A home deep cleaned, packed up and rented out. Lots of goodbye dinners. Oh, the small matter of packing our bags.

9th April: Day 1

A long, long day, thanks to a ‘head buzzing’, sleepless night, and  24 hours of travel against the clock.  During the first flight from Kerikeri to Auckland, I could see both coasts of New Zealand at the same time.  Would have to be an astronaut in orbit to manage the same feat of the USA. As a point to note, our first meal in the States was a salad. Nick is still in shock… We arrived safely in Seattle in the evening, all bags present and correct, to be scooped up by Dean and Lori, and whisked back to to comfort of their art deco home. They are gracefully hosting us for a week, and helping us get out s**t together.

10th April: Day 2

We are now the proud owners of a US bank account and finished the day with margaritas and Mexican food.

11th April, Day 3

Pick up day for the camper and truck, a trip that was about 70 miles and a short ferry ride. A morning of nervous anticipation, as we had taken a leap of faith and bought the ‘rig’ sight unseen over the internet.  Originally Lori had been worried we might be the victim of a ‘bait and switch’. We were less concerned, but you never know… All was entirely as advertised.

And this is the Beast (Working title).  Well, a beast of a truck, loaded with, a small-but-perfectly-formed home. Well, a small home, but a very large camper.

For those interested: The truck is a Chevy Silverado 3500 Dually, with an 8.1L petrol engine. Did I say beast? I meant planet. The bed is in a different timezone to the cab. When loaded, it does a whole…wait for it…9 miles to the gallon.

We had a rapid and detailed show around, with a beginners guide to all that is ‘camper’. This included tutorials on the power systems, the gadgets, and the ‘black water’ management.  Quite important to get things right in that department. Strong advice was given on toilet paper types, chemicals to use, and the tank drainage and flushing.  We can live without mistakes in that department.

With brains full of new information, notebooks filled with scribbled memos, Nick expertly manoeuvred us back onto the ferry, and across back through the Seattle traffic to our first camp, Dean and Lori’s driveway. They live in a beautifully manicured and exclusive gated community, which doesn’t usually play host to camper hillbillies. So luckily we are parked out of sight. Don’t want to raise the ire of the Home Owners Association. We uncoupled the camper from the truck (Easy once we had worked out the power situation), and will worry about the re-loading procedure another day.

12th April: Day 4

The boring details are not needed, but today I went shopping. Macys and Target now have some of our money, and we have a somewhere to sleep, and can now cook. In the evening, Dean took Nick to his Boys’ Book Club meeting. As you can imagine, this is a thinly veiled front for a ‘yacking, eating, drinking, etc, club’. They came back suitably improved.

13th April: Day 5

Today we spent (a lot) more money, and are also now the proud owners of a USA cell phone and number, and 2 nice new shiny bikes. We had planned to buy second hand bikes, and thought the city would be awash with such machines at affordable prices, but it seems not.  The price for a new bike was only about $100 more, so it seemed to make more sense. Dean and Lori continue to be indispensable as Adventure Facilitators, as their good friend owns a bike shop, and gave us his ‘mates rates’ discount. 

In the evening, other friends of Dean and Lori came round for dinner. A cool group of people that we have met several times previously, so great to catch up with them again.

14th April: Day 6

A few weeks ago Lori and Dean saw and bought a holiday home across the mountains from Seattle in a (much sunnier and outdoor activity friendly) town called Wenatchee.  We went over with them for the night, as they took possession of the property, and took the first 2 carloads of stuff, and the bikes over.  Her sister lives in the same complex, and the family had gathered for a birthday dinner for her Mum.  It was great to meet her sisters, brothers-in-law, and parents.

15th April: Day 7

The day started with a lovely bike ride along the trail along the banks of the mighty Columbia river, which is as the bottom of the house’s back garden. The new machines performed admirably, although our bodies are a bit out of condition currently. Luckily the route was flat. The sun was shining, and we shared the trail with the multitude of runners doing the Wenatchee marathon and half marathon. Lori’s Dad created a huge pile of pancakes for brunch afterwards, and we sat in the sun in Marla and Marty’s garden. Definitely more spring-like on this side of the mountains.  We came back to Seattle mid-afternoon, had an early dinner out at a local restaurant and then sat around Dean’s new gas fire pit for an hour, until it got too cool. We watched both hummingbirds and bald eagles fly around the trees before dusk. Quite a bird spectrum in The Highlands.

16th April: Day 8

Yup. Still not camping.

Easter brunch of more pancakes, followed by another money haemorrhage at the shopping emporium that is Fred Meyer.  We now own a tool kit, an axe (because Nick wanted one), lots of bike accessories, and a whole heap of other  essentials that I had not thought we needed.

The truck had its first of many re-fuels, and then we successfully navigated the delicate procedure of backing it back under the camper, and reloading the whole kit and caboodle.  Managed to achieve this, and remain married.  For all those with a trailer boat, you will know what I mean…

17th April: Day 9

Today we had planned to set off, finally, on the Big Adventure.  Unfortunately Nick awoke with an awful head cold, and so we are not rushing off today.  Such is the beauty of having such a long time to do our trip.  We continued to titivate the Tin Can, and take our time doing the last few bits and pieces. We really will leave tomorrow. It will be an early start, as Dean and Lori are leaving early-ish to start their trip to Indonesia tomorrow. It will also give us time to a) decide where the hell we are going to go tomorrow, and b) for me to finish off this first epic post.

This has been a fantastic week. Such a treat to be able to sort ourselves out at leisure with this great house as a base, and Dean and Lori as such amazing hosts. They are planning to come and find us somewhere along the way, so it will be interesting to see where that will end up being.